Zuccardi “Poligonos” - 100% Cabernet Franc. San Pablo, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina 2018
We talk a lot about growing regions in the wine world. The influences that the soil, the sun and the environment have on the vines. In a place like Burgundy they have it down to a minuscule, regulated, system where they can say “No, no no, these vines produce Pinot Noir that is floral, but those vines 5 yards away are fruity because of the slope of this hill.” …and sure enough it's proven to be true. Now this is all in the well established ‘old world’, but in places like California we’re still figuring out which varieties of grapes work best where, and what makes the land unique. Argentina is similar, and different in that regard. On the one hand they’ve honed in on a handful of varietals which better helps express the difference in region from where one Malbec or Cab Franc is planted compared to another. The glaring problem is that the main region, Mendoza, is massive and it’s prestigious sub-region, Valle de Uco, is also quite large and incredibly vague on it's territory. The reason for it is partly because these are the highest elevation vineyards, but with no distinction on how high-up they go (we're talking a difference of about 900ft from the highest to the lowest plantings!) and also from the limestone that an ancient glacier dragged out of the Andes, with a much much higher concentration of the rock the closer you are to the Andes. Quick re-cap: some vines are super high elevation with rich limestone, others are lower elevation with next to no limestone: they are all labeled Valle de Uco. Mercifully Zuccardi is waving the flag for expressing the beauty of how diverse the land can be. The vineyards of San Pablo are the highest elevation in the valley which also means they are situated over rich limestone that evokes perfect balance and concentration in the Cab franc vines. The wine itself is positively singing with aromatics of dried herbs and black peppercorns that are layered over juicy blackberry and plum notes while all persisting towards the finish becoming increasingly more savory and vivacious till that last, everlasting, drop.
Mitravelas - 100% Assyrtiko. Peloponnese, Greece 2018
Assyrtiko has increasingly become a buzz grape in the wine world. With the popularity of Sauvignon blanc ever on the rise many jump on the chance to have a light dry white wine that is similar yet different. Our biggest hesitation with the grape here at Swirl is that a typical tasting note that pops up for this varietal is a musty, almost dank, cellar quality. Pardon us, but when we think nervous, snappy, light dry Greek wine we want it to evoke the feeling of a warm sunny day in Santorini and 'musty cellar’ isn’t a particularly welcome addition to the mix. We had found one that we joyfully poured on the bar list, but it was very cost prohibitive for a spontaneous day at the park. Then we found Mitravelas, one of the oldest producers in the sun drenched region of Peloponnese. The freshness and energy that comes bounding out of the glass is addicting, to say the least. We see bushels of orchard fruits, with an abundance of yellow peaches and a delicate undertone of jasmine among other white flowers all while being light and dry with a slight seaside-brininess on the finish. Perfection.
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot “Les Grandes Terres” - 100% Pinot Noir. Remigny, Burgundy, France 2018
Ah, Burgundy. A region steeped in traditions and stereotypes. The greatest producing valley is known as the Côte-d’Or and it’s separated between the northern Côte de Nuits, known for it’s show stopping and concentrated reds, and the Côte de Beaune, known for some of the best white wines in the world. While Pinot Noir is grown in the southern region it is generally considered lighter, more acid driven, and (simply put) much thinner. Generally. We are so fortunate to have producers like Jean-Marc Pillot who evokes every last ounce out of his Pinots to grace us with something that can easily spar with any of it's northern brethren. We get a much more pretty expression of the varietal too with room filling aromatics of fresh roses and hibiscus which does lead to the typical palate filling red berry, but in this case it's nuanced as if the berries are spicy and wildly grown all wrapped up in a silky finish. Pro tip: while very immediately pleasurable, this wine evolves gorgeously given even 30 minutes of time to breath.
Fabio Motta “Pievi” - 50% Merlot, 25% Cab Sauv, 25% Sangiovese. Bolgheri, Italy 2017
Bolgheri: birthplace of the ‘Super Tuscan’ blend - something that once was rebellious (mix Tuscany Sangiovese with French grapes?! Gasp.) it has now become a synonym for excellent wines that finely balance the gap between Chianti Classico and a great Bordeaux. Fabio Motta, while no stranger to Bolgheri having spent multiple vintages working for other wineries, has only recently acquired a small parcel to make the wine he envisioned: something that tastes distinctly of the area he’s grown to love but with a more youthful (i.e not overly rustic) approach. This gives us a wine that has big plush fruit that makes it just so immediately charming and pleasurable, but with just enough dusty tannins to be a quenching finish, or to pair excellently with your next big meal.
Chateau de Viaud-Lalande - 85% Merlot, 25% Cabernet franc. Lalande-de-Pommerol, Bordeaux, France 2016
Bordeaux is an interesting place for importing wine from. Whereas most regions have relationships with distributors to bring in the wine for multiple vintages Bordeaux requires all wineries to sell the specific vintage to whomever commits to the wine after it is bottled. This makes things a bit of a free-for-all and most Bordeaux gets purchased from a local distributor by an importer (read: adds a middleman so naturally the price goes up). Thankfully one of our savvy importers snatched this wine up directly so we get an incredible wine at less than half the price it would typically be seen at. This is a prime example of the region, and a great comparison to Bolgheri. We see the same intense fruit, but also a nutty, almost coffee like, texture that coats the opulent cherry fruit all ending with a faintest of tannins. Classic.