July 2020

Owen Roe "Sinister Hand"

55% Grenache, 19% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre, 9% Cinsaut. Yakima Valley, Washington 2018

When David O'Reilly began his winery in 1999 he wanted to share with the world his passion for wine, and one of his family's ancestral legacy: the Sinister Hand. Back in the late 10th century the O'Reilly's and the O'Neill's had both set sights on a remote island to establish their clans and legacy. Trouble was: who gets to settle there? A competition was decided on: which ever team first touches lands, claims the island. Both set out on boats and it appeared that the O'Neill's were going to become the rulers of the day, until one of the O'Reilly rowers chopped off his left hand, or in latin his sinister hand, and threw it, thus becoming the first to touch land - and the O'Reilly's are still proud of Lough Oughter's island fortress to this day. This fantastic story used to make this wine a Swirl favorite around Halloween time, trouble is that over the last 4 years the popularity has risen so much that it never lasted that long. While this was always a shame, we did appreciate that the wine quality never wavered to increase quantity and for this vintage we secured a large enough allocation of it to proudly feature on our wine club! This wine is the epitome of a crowd pleaser: bright, aromatic, purple fruit immediately greets you with sun ripened blackberries and plums all caressed with subtle violets and hints of incense that lead to a complex palate that, while it begins very pinot-like with it's bright lifted fruit, has undertones of broody, almost malbec-like, leather and raspberry jams. This all gives way to a long, spicy, finish. Toast a glass with your left hand, and enjoy something truly sinister in it's deliciousness.

Graham Beck "Brut Zero"

77% Pinot Noir, 23% Chardonnay. Western Cape, South Africa 2012

Most champagne (and sparkling wine) have sugar added to them. Gasp. The truth is out! There is a universal rating system that identifies how dry a sparkling wine is but, confusingly Extra Dry is not the driest. Folklore has it that when the British were buying champagne they all claimed it was too sweet so the French made a special, drier, version for the 'Bruts' in England - and thus a tradition was born. Nowadays a demand has risen for even drier sparkling, with no added sugar known as Brut Zero or Brut Natural. Conceptually this is great, but in practice it can become very clear why they added sugar: the incredibly high acid. We're not talking like fine Chablis levels of acid, more like strip-the-enamel off your teeth levels of acid! So how does one make a bubbly that both has no sugar, and is delightful to drink? Time. The longer the wine spends on it's secondary fermentation (what gives it it's bubbles), the creamier it becomes while also taming that vivacious acidity. This particular wine has spent an unheard of 7 years doing just that. We're nearing Dom Perignon levels of extended aging, but nowhere near those prices. The quality speaks for itself: with a hue that speaks of peachy sunshine, and the finest of bubbles gently enticing you to take a sip. The wine has the hallmarks of exceptional bubbly with layers of freshly baked almond and lemon brioche buns that lead down to baked apples and blueberry cobblers all giving way to a finish that is snappy and crisp. The perfect sparkling for any celebration. Day that ends in 'y' - why not pop the bubbly?

Pra "Morandina"

35% Corvina, 35% Corvinone, 23% Rodinella, 7% Oseleto. Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore, Veneto, Italy 2017

The Veneto region of Italy is best known for its red corvina blends and it's white wines from Soave. Pra's major production, and what they're best known for, is white wine, but they have been quietly making arguably the best red wine in the region. The problem? They make very little of it, and the price point is typically not 'budget'. Valpolicella Ripassos should never really be much more than $20, and Pra's comes in at $45. Even so: it's a bargain given the incredible quality. Valpolicella blends are typically known for their fresh, playful, a fruit forward profile with a short, soft, finish and their bigger brothers, Amarones, are made from drying out the grapes and have a dense, almost chewy, palate with big jammy fruit. Ripassos, such as this, are made by soaking a Valpolicella in the pressed amarone grapes. This gives us the best of both worlds: bright fresh fruit, but tons of stuffing and a big finish. Pra is a shining example of this. Rich, red, fruit explodes out of the glass with plush cherry and cola spice taking the center stage that envelopes into a palate concentrated with dark chocolate, fresh coffee, and raspberries mixed with strawberries that lead to a mineral driven finish. The easiest of drinkers right here.

Bodegas Tobelos "Crianza"

100% Tempranillo. Rioja, Spain

Crianza is generally reserved for the younger, more entry-level, wines of a Bodega in Spain. Not so with Tobelos: for them it's their flagship. The reservas, and grand reservas, may sound grandiose but the problem is they spend too much time in oak (by law) and that masks the pretty fruit that makes Tempranillo so charming. Tobelos knows this and that's why their best fruit only sees a mild year in used oak barrels so the wine can truly express itself. What we get is glorious: the bright tempranillo candied cherries are accentuated by hibiscus and pomegranate undertones all in a cracked black peppery finish. There's a reason this grape is considered the king in Spain!

Ridge 

100% Zinfandel. Paso Robles, California 2017
Ridge: one of California's most classic, and consistently great, producers. There's a little known secret to this fabled winery, however. Several years back their winemaker handed the reigns over to not one, but both of his assistant winemakers. You see - Ridge has two wineries, one North of Healdsburg in Geyserville and one high in the Santa Clara Mountains, Monte Bello. So, naturally, they each now have their own head winemakers with Geyserville focusing on Zins, and a few other varietals, and Monte Bello focusing on Cabernet and it's brethren (Merlot, etc...). Except one Zin is made at Monte Bello: this little wine from Paso Robles. What does that mean? Well Zins are generally made with powerful, loud, fruit and can be quet bombastic, but Cabernet blends are generally made with a lighter, more nuanced, touch. The wine you have in your glass is the perfect marriage of the two. While it does contain the typical Zin fruit, it develops in the glass. Every sip leads to a new, deeper, experience as the wine reveals layers of olive tapenade and tamarind hiding beneath the juicy boisenberry and black cherry fruits. The Bordeaux of Zins.