Weingut May "Retzstadter Langenberg"
100% Spatburgunder. Franken, Germany 2016
There is an old phrase in the wine world: the perfect, most idyllic, place to grow grapes is the perfect, most idyllic, place to live. The vineyards of Retzstader Langenberg in Germany are a prime example of this saying. Located in a peaceful river valley just north of Würzberg it is certainly not the worst-berg. All the vines are planted on the lush hillsides overlooking the town beneath and glow radiant white due to the ancient seashell limestone soils, with a watchful forest at the peak of the hillside protecting it from any harsh winds. The grapes that are grown here benefit from a warmth and ripeness rarely found in Germany making this the perfect place to plant Spatburgunder, more commonly known by its French name: Pinot Noir. If you were to have this wine in your glass with no prior knowledge of what it was, then you would immediately think it was Burgundy from the nose. It's hyper expressive with lush aromatics of deep red flowers (think hibiscus and ruby red rose), that only broadens and becomes more bold with added layers of pomegranate and juicy cherry while finishing with refreshing acidity perfect for a mild summer day at the park. German Pinot Noir: who knew it could be so wonderful?
Château de Roquefort "Guele de Loup"
80% Grenache, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cinsault. Provence, France 2018
Château de Roquefort is the epitome of the romanticized French Chateaux. Let's begin with the name: Roquefort. Before the Roman's invaded the southern French coast there were fortifications built as a defense and this Chateau resides in an amphitheater of one such crude fort that the Romans named "Rocca Fortis" - which has also made this the perfect site for growing grapes due to its high altitude, proximity to the sea, and protection from wind we get a cooler microclimate than most of Provence allowing for a rare treat to be made: red Provence wine. The Earl of Gardanne did just such a thing when he purchased the estate in 1812, and it has remained in the family ever since with the Earl's emblem proudly emblazoned on the label. Seaside vineyard, ancient ruins, and royalty. Pretty romantic and idyllic for a vineyard! Now: how about the wine itself? Red wine is rarely produced in Provence because it's typically far too warm for the grapes to fully mature, which is why rose is so typically made instead. Even though Roquefort has protection from the most intense heat, it is still very warm. As a result we get ripe Grenache and Cinsault that is elegantly structured by the Cabernet Sauvignon. While it is only 10% Cabernet it does make itself very present! The nose is rich and deep filled with blueberries and black currants that unfolds to this creamy, mouth-filling, cassis like quality that finishes with a bevvy of violets and supple berries with some soft tannin. The name, Guele de Loup, is French for the snapdragon flowers grown in between the vines. What a fitting name for such a vivacious wine!
Zyme "From Black to White"
60% Rodinella Bianca, 15% Gold Traminer, 15% Kerner, 10% Incrocio Manzoni. Veneto, Italy 2015
Zyme is a story of a new generation: founded by the step-son of the Quentarrelli family, this winery both pays its respects to the classic Amarone style while still having an eye to the future and what can be. While the Amarones of both houses are wonderful in their own rights, they also run in the triple digits. What we think is even cooler, and more indicative of a modern wine making style, is Zyme's passion project: From Black to White. The name is a jab at the rare grape this is made from: a mutation of Rodinella in the vineyard where the typically red grape was white. This mutated vine was nurtured, propagated, and replanted to yield a small amount of wine that is truly one of a kind. The nose is friendly, and familiar, yet has such a beautiful tapestry of elderflowers, peaches, and tangy bright pink grapefruit, among many nuanced sublayers, that lead to a wine that is bright and lifted yet has a true presence! This is a white wine with incredible depth and, while we're sure it will pair nicely with a fresh seafood dish, it has so much cerebral complexity it almost begs the imbiber to enjoy it's many layers on it's own, with company, as a perfect aperitif. Why, oh why, don't more people plant this grape and make more wines like this? Delicious.
Ignaz Niedrist "Kalterersee Auslese Classico"
97% Schiava, 3% "Other Indigenous Varietals" Alto Adige, Italy 2018
Schiava is another one of those tragic grapes that was almost overlooked, and made extinct, by wineries replacing it with more lucrative varietals. In the case of Alto Adige that would be Pinot Grigio - easy to grow and make, while very well suited for the region to produce snappy, cheap, and easy white wines. Ignaz Niedrist was one of those producers that focused more on the well known varietals, but in 2003 when an ancient neighboring vineyard was being demolished he couldn't bare to see the history erased so he took several cuttings and planted them in his vineyard (mostly Schiava, but some cannot be identified thus the "3% other indigenious varietals"). We are pleased to say that his decision really did 'bear fruit'! Schiava, particularly this Schiava, makes for the perfect daytime chillable red: crunchy, bright, crystalized red fruit just leaps out of the glass while it light, lifted, body is immediately charming and begs to be paired with sunny poolside days.
J. L. Chave "Mon Coeur"
Grenache and Syrah. Cotes- Du- Rhone, France 2017
This is the first, and possibly the last, time we have not listed the known percentages of varietals in a blended wine. Chave is a rarified wine family, tracing its roots back to 1481, and J.L. Chave is a very soulful winemaker. On one of his visits to Swirl he was asked what percentages of grapes went into his white wine. The answer? He does not rely on exact amounts, rather he is making a wine that expresses a vineyard - it is always 100% from that vineyard and that's what he concerns himself with. So it came as no surprise that there were zero notes saying how much Syrah is in this wine. What makes it so special is that Chave is best known for his Syrahs and this is the only Grenache he works with. It is so special to him that he has named the wine Mon Coeur, or 'my heart'. The wine itself is stunning and while it carries the fantastic hallmark Chave Syrah qualities (dusted black pepper, bold violets, plush juicy red fruit with the perfect complement of tannin) the Grenache brings a much welcome playful attribute to the wine givings us strawberry rhubarb pie filling with this velvetine texture that would be perfect with a pork or lamb based dinner. It is imminently enjoyable just from popping and pouring, but sings with 30 minutes, or so, of decanted air.